Tuesday, June 16, 2009

Crepes y tapas en Granada

Oops, I thought to myself the moment after pouring what looked like pancake batter into the pan. It was a crepe mix. Oh well. I ended up with the worlds thickest crepe. Tasted the same, there was just a lot more there than normal.

I'm on a train heading towards Seville after two nights in Granada. Just enough time to do the city a bit of justice, but I could have easily spent a week in it. It was yet another georgious city, filled with small cobblestone streets where the cars jsut fit though, and the chance of getting run over seems pretty high. Luckily the drivers know exactly how big thier cars are, passing within inches of walls and people.

It makes me wonder why so many people would put up with dragging a car through the maze of small streets. Sure there are plenty of motocycles and mopeds, and that seems like a much better way to go. Kind of makes me want to pick one up when I get back state side. I think the number of SUVs to the nunber of small cars in America is equivalent to the number of mopeds/motocycles in the cities I've seen. And for the most part they transport the same number of people, one. What a differmce that would make if America could give up this obsession with large cars. If you can't tell I'm a fan of small cars.

Anyways, the small cobblestone streets are lined with a mix of Spanish and morrish architecture, all in various states from new to fallig apart. I find the areas with old, decaying houses the most beautiful sometes. There is something inherintly lovely about old buildings that have grown into thier surroundings, or have been slowly reconqured by it's surroundings. Ruins are great. But like I said in an earlier post, since there is so much more history here, buildings have been around longer than in the states and just kind fit I thier surroundings much more natural. Grass grows on old stone walls, trees and plants have grown up right against house walls, and there are more natural colors in the buildings.

Granada had a section of the city that was all caves built into the hillside. It was there were the freespirited lived, not a bad place at all considering the earth kept thier homes at a constant tempurature, despite how hot or cold is got outside. And it got hot. There were a few more established homes and restaurants/bars further down the hill. One of which I stopped by yesterday before heading to the morrish palace of Alhambra.

Alhambra was amazing. For those reading who don't know what morrish architecture is let me quickly explain (it's been a while since I took a class on it, so I there may be a few details askew). .

Since the Muslim religious forbids the use of figures in it's artwork, they used patterns, lettering and plants in thier artwork. The effect of covering a wall with these tightly packed carved patterns, is a sense of lightness, associated with fabrics/carpets. So you end up with amazingly detailed patterns, which fill walls, cielings, doorways, etc. This palace was filled with this. Detail on a miniscule scale, and amazing patterns that would fill whole walls. The arches for doorways would have the appearance of frilly lace.

Overall I spent nearly 6 hours wondering around the palace and the surrounding gardins/other smaller buildings. This was ofciurae in the middle of the day where the sun is at it's brightest and hottest. I think I drank nearly a gallon and a half of water, and was ready to quit and go back to the hostel when, luckily, cloudy weather brought a nearby thunderstorm and cooler weather. And the sight of watching a storm move over the nearby mountains and across the city/nearby valley, with patches of soft sunlight alighting various slopes, just made my day all that much better.

Granada was great, and I could have easily spent a few more days there wondering the mazelike old city and spending the nights drinking beer with free tapas surrounded by the travelers that met at the hostel.

It dawned on me the other day as I was in a group of people consisting of Austrailians, French, Candian, American, Dutch, and so on, that I don't of anywhere else where I would be able to meet, hangout with, and get to know so many people from so many different places than here in Europe.

Granada was great, the hostel was lots of fun, but now I'm off to Seville, where more adventures are in store.


It's that time again for things I've noticed:

Dogs and cats where everywhere in Granada. There was not a leash/lead in sight, and the cats where mostly ferrel. Living in and around the palace.

Even though it may be hot and humid, people somehow are still wearing jeans. It at least boggles my mind.

No matter how much sun I get. I don't get tan (maybe a few more freckles). And no mater how much sunblock I use, I'm always just on the edge of a sunburn.

There are a lot of Americans that travel, but it's in a disproportionate amount to the total amount of people that live our county. And the excuse that we are further away, I would say that I feel eveyone in Austrailia travels to Europe. But of course in the end it's easier for people in Europe to travel within.

At least everyone that I've met and talked to at hostels speaks english, from seviceable to fluent, except for one girl I met in France. She spoke Spanish though, so I attempted what was to be a failed conversation with someone from France in Spanish. Oh well.

American media is everywhere. In terms of music and movies. I think I hear more songs come over the radio that I recognize (or are in English) than I don't. I feel that, at least in central New York, that we don't have any stations that play international music.

Sunday, June 14, 2009

Mishaps in Madrid

I learned another lesson yeaterday. Don't book ahead more than a day (or double check your dates). I've done just fine finding hostels up to this point, but of course the one day that I actually book ahead I happen to book and pay for the wrong date.

I got into Madrid yesterday morning after a night of decent train sleep (4-5 hours), and was excited that I knew where I was staying and had it all paid for already. Excited, that is, untill I got there and realizzed that I had booked the night before (not taking into account the added day from the night train). Oops.

It was then I realized that I also had booked the train to Granada for the wrong day (going off of the hostel date), and that 'my tran' had already left that morning before I even arrived. Double oops.

Not to best way to start off the day. So as I was eating my €18 breakfast (the cost I had paid for the wrong day), I looked at the bright side of things. Took some time, and figured that my trip had been smooth up to this point (for the most part), and hopefully I was just getting it all outbof my system all at once. I had some good coversations with the people at my table, and felt better afterwards.

These things happen. No worries.

The rest oft day was spent at a one of the museums in town and relaxing. The museum was one of the largest privately owned collections of art, and I would have to agree. It filled a museum at least two d the size of the one I have back at home, and covered art from early italian paintings to modern and pop art. Quite the collection. I couldn't imagine owning that much artwork. There was also a special exhibit of Matisse. So a good visit to the museum, which filled my afternoon.

I had to rebook my ticket, and normaly it has taken anywhere from 30-60 minutes to get through the line. This time, I was able to walk right up to the counter. The kind lady had a great grasp of english, and even recommended several places to see in Granada. Best visit to a train station so far. Just what I needed after all that had just happened.

The day was ended with a homecooked meal, calls home, chocolate and wine. Not a bad end to the day at all. And now I'm off to Granada to see one of the most impressive morrish palaces in the world. I'm super excited. Impressions to come in the next post.

Friday, June 12, 2009

A lesson in Lisbon

I find that us Manwarings tend to be pretty trusting. A great trait until someone takes advantage of that fact. That happened today in Lisbon. I met a person, was told of a normal series of events that could leave one needing a bit of money for a taxi ride. Lots of talking, good, long, elaborate details about why she was in town, what happened, etc. It all seems to check out. I get a phone number, email address, name, and she gets a little cash with a promise to meet up at a location later on to reinburse me. Yeah, looking back I'm not quite sure what happened, but I got taken for a ride. Never thought I would fall for something like that, but low and behold, I did. Lesson learned. Cash will never leave my hands over a promise again. A pricy little lesson, but a good life lesson.

All I can think is that these people have a LOT of time to come up with amazing details to cover everything that one might ask. They should put those acting skills to use on film.

Anyways, I figured I would get that out first, so I can move onto the awesome time that I had in Lisbon. First of all there was the hostel. It felt a little like home. I was exhausted, dirty, dishelved, after a night of little sleep from Madrid. I had gone to one place, which didn't check out to my standards. But as soon as I walked into this hostel I was greeted by the most outgoing, kind, hostel worker. She immediately took my bags, shooed me off to shower, offered breakfast, and then got me set and orientated for the day. It's amazing what a difference a warm welcome makes at a hostel. And all of the workers at this hostel where the same, genuine amazing people. There was sen occasional food and always sangria available in the evening. I didn't want to leave. I would go back just to stay at that hostel for another week.

My first impression ofnlisbon wasn't a great one. I was tired, I didn't understand anyone (well that hasn't really changed, it was cloudy and gray. In a city that is full of small and late streets lines with pastel and brightly colored buildings, where the streets and sidewalks are tiles stone, it really doesn't come alive till the sun comes out to light it all up. What a difference there was in city before I arrived at the hostel (grey) and when I set out for the day (brilliant, clear blue sky). It's amazing what the proper lighting will do.

I spenty first day wondering the streets, taking in both the tourist sexton, as well as old-school Lisbon. Where the streets consist of the sizes barely large enough for a car and large enough for motorcycle (maybe). Tiles cover everything in Lisbon. Houses are sides in them and they show up everywhere. It was great to walk around for a while and just explore. My final destination was a castle set up above the city. It gave a great view of Lisbon from above. Filled with warm orange ceramic roof tiles, constrasted with a cool blue sky. Day one was finished off hanging out with a small group from the hostel (consisting of three from Germany, and one other from the states. It's amazing the people that you will meet traveling at hostels. I'm always amazed at how well people from other countries speak and understand English. Anyways, there was delicious food, I had the most amazing salmon which quite literally melted in my mouth. It was a good first day in Lisbon.

Day two consisted of visitng a small town nearby called Sintrs. It was filled a georgious mix of ecclectic buildings, colors, and small back alleyways. The day was spent hiking up a large hill with both a moorish castle and palace ontop of it.

The castle was amazing. A good set of ruins, which I spent a few hours climbing about. It was almost fairytsle, with sunspot dabbled woods, and old castle round hidden amongs the undergrowth. I wish a camera was able to accurately capture such a scene.the other half of the castle was in the hilltop, with a commanding view ofthe surrounding landscape. It was fun to sit in the old seats, covered in moss, and wonder who else had sat here before in all the centuries before.

The palace was painted fun colors, and filled with ornate decorations. Most cielings were filled with tiles or fancy stonework patterns. There were more details than one person could shake a stick at. Not only was a it a georgious palace (couldn't take photos inside), every window offered a picturesq view of the surrounding landscape, as the palace was set up on one of the highest hills around. Not a bad location at all, as long as you didn't have to climb up to it everyday.

The evening was filled with sardines, fresh off the grill, good coversation, and a good old festival going strong out in the street below. It was filled with colorful streamers, lights, music, people, dancing and food. It gave a great little peak into the culture of the area.

Today was filled with a few museums, an exquisit cathedral, lots of sun, and more good times in Lisbon. I have the feeling that I may need to revisit the city someday (and I hope the hostel is still there), and do more day trips to surrounding towns and villages. There is plenty to see and do.

Now it's time to attempt to sleep on a train again.

I'm currently sitting on a night train Lisbon, heading out of Madrid, and hoeping to be exhausted enough to get some sleep along the way. It's been hit and miss with sleep on transportation. The last experience was good (Paris to Madrid). I forgot to write about it even (I think). So let me recap.

Paris and the surrounding country side was green, lush, and pretty flat. Kinda like parts of the midwest. It was nice, but not a landscape that really stands out in my mind. The light grew dim and I lost sight of the Paris landscape. Sleep ensued, and upon waking my eyes where presented win a feast of visuals that were beyound anything I've yet seen. The closest landscape that I can compare it too is Arizona's.

The sun was low, setting the land ablaze with an orange glow. It was mountain terrain, filled with hills, valleys, slopes that lay untouched, astrew with rocks. This rugged terrain would do. Off to one side the vista opened up to valleys upon valleys like this, with the occasional small town strewn in for a change. The land was orange, grey, and green.

I noticed later on the day what a difference the land made on the cold of the sky and clouds. As they were slightly warmer than the clouds I've seen elsewhere, different from your typical cool/fluffy white clouds.

Anyway, Toledo.

Toledo was a great time. The center of it is a small city on a hill, with maze-like streets and an old, ornate cathedral to boot. It's streets are cobblestone-clad, intimate, filled to the brim with stone houses towering about the street lettng in just enough light to bring warmth to the street. Occasionally these would open up into small squares where there would be small parks of trees and people lounging lazily in the sun. A sun soaked city it was.

I stayed in a hostel that was a renovated castle, just on the other side of the river that runs around the cit center. Not only was it a castle (awesome in it's own right), but it was one of the cheapest and offered some of the best amendities, as well as a killer view of the city across the river. I almost wished I had book another night and didn't have a train ticket already set to return to madrid (and then to Lisbon). I think there was a musical festival tonight this is what I get for locking myself into dates. And unfortunately the set is going to happen in Lisbon. I'll leave the night before a big festival. Oh well, I need to tkae an extra day somewhere, as I seem to be moving one day ahead of everything that is happening.

Well, while Toledo didn't have a lot to offer in terms of museums and churches, the city had a charm in it's own right. And I could spend all day trying to navigate the mess of streets. Wondering how a public bus gets through and around some of tv corners in the city. Most roads where only a foot or two wider than a car. It's good fun when you have to duck into a nearby doorway for the car to get past you.

The town did have one amazig cathedral. While quite a looked from the outside, the inside truely shined. With high gothic vaulted cielings, majestic stained glass, and a no photo policy. I had to sneak a few photos in though. It was so large, and there were so few attendants, it was easy to do. The whole cathedral was covered in ornate carvings, including a pretty amazing scene at the back of the church. It's hard to describe, so I'll post photos later. Needless when they made this, they went over the top. Intact it really got me wondering about cathedrals.

Obvioulsy most came from a time where those in power where the church and lords/barons. These buildings technically where built to gloify God, but I don't think that was the main point when they were made. They show off the wealth and power of the church as an estabishment. The more elaborate, the better the relics, the more people and pilgrims you would attract and so fourth. I think they lost origial purpose in some of these buildings.

Well, there's more to that thought, but it's about time to attempt sleep on this train. Next update will be from/about Lisbon.

Monday, June 8, 2009

Still

For the second time in my life I watched as the trAin I was to board left the station in front of my eyes. Not exactly the best start to a day. I got lost in conversation with a few people at breakfast and before I knew it I had only a little time left to make it to my train. Unfortunately it appears the metro system here in Madrid was against me. Both lines had a 4 minute wait. This is the only time I've run into multiple waits so far. That extra 8 minutes made me just miss my train to Toledo. I have to wait for the next one.

I was so frazzled, tense, annoyed, frustrated, and anxious. Not a good thing for me to be.

I needed to stop, rest, and gather myself up again. Be still.

So here I am, writing this from a small coffee shop in the train station. I have a ticket for a train in an hour. Everything is ok. I'll just be arriving a little later than expected. I just need to remember that I don't need to worry about these things, I'm not really constricted by a set timeline and I can take things as they come. Such as this instance.

Madrid has been nice. Despite being a rather large city, I find it isn't nearly as packed with things to do as other cities I have been in so far. In the two days I've been here I've visited two museums. The Prado (they say the second best collection of masterpieces to the louvre) which did have quite the collection, and the Sophia, a modern art museum. I still don't get a lot of modern art, at least not viewing it on my own. Sometimes I feel the concepts behind these pieces are so abstract, that there is no way a normal person could get at the artists point. If there was a point to begin with anyway. Sometimes I think modern artists don't really know what they are doing and are just really good at selling crap to museums. Just create a little story to go along with the dark empty room with a small pile of sand in the middle (it represents the world as a collective of skills and knowledge, which, while it may add up to a large pile in the eyes of an individual grain of sand, it is but a small part of a larger unseen sphere) , and walk away with a check in your pocket.

Anyways, my first day was spent milling about those two museums. I finished off the day journaling with a glass of wine and chocolate at the hostel. It made for a fine day of activity.

Sunday was more laid back. The only item I had on my agenda was to go to the bullfight later on in the day. It was a good day filled with wondering about the city, on a little self tour. There were a few nice plazas, a cathedral, palace, and several parks along the way. It was a relaxing day, set at a very nice relaxing pace. At the end of it, I was off to the bullfight.

The stadium was packed, and boy did they pack you in. Luckily my section had a few empty seats around me. Otherwsie you have space just for yourself, and nothing else. But what a spectical it was. The excitement of the crowd at the death defying antics below.

What a showoff event it is. The matadors exhude masculinity, it is a gladiator sport of sorts, except instead of another human it's a fight to death with the bull. They are out there, posing in front of the bull mere inches in front of it with the flag behind thier back, completely exposed. Showing complete control and calmness in the face of danger. Most important it's about the agility and accuracy of the final blow to the toro. If a matador has put on a good show, and strikes deftly and acurrately to kill the bull, he is well rewarded by the crowd.

It was definately completely different than anything I've experinced before.

Madrid has been nice, but I've exhiasted it already. So I'm now off to Toledo for a day, before heading to Lisbon.